Very nice, and I like the idea of using a local auto paint shop.
One idea, if you just want to make the one-off bespoke panel, but still support anything bigger than a RasPi cantilevered out the back of it, is to combine your custom panel with an off-the-shelf (ha) rackmount shelf.
You can get shelves that are fairly thin but sturdy sheet steel, that have a lip and clearance below (such as for room for zip ties or non-flush screws from the bottom. And you can also get ones that are flush with the bottom of the unit, and use adhesive (including Velcro pads) to mount the components on top.
If you want an easy way to make a front panel that doesn't look as good as the one in the article, you can get a rackmount gap filler panel, which will probably be thinner steel sheet metal then the aluminum one, and drill/Dremel/lasercut? whatever holes you need in it.
Another option is starting with a rackmount drawer, such as those by some DJs/musicians in road cases. It's a rackmount front panel, plus an all-sides enclosure rest of it. Which you can unlock and slide out. to access the internal components, without unracking. You can drill/cut air holes. Cabling to the rear will vary depending on the design.
I’ve had custom made front panels with front panel express and they do the anodizing and screen printing, the finish is on-par with any commercial equipment, I also have done some custom equipment using custom printed overlays by Maverick Label, this is specially useful for things that have displays, led indicators or membrane switches.
I have a 2u drawer that could accept a face panel. It would actually be super useful to be able to access the equipment behind without taking the rack off the wall.
One idea, if you just want to make the one-off bespoke panel, but still support anything bigger than a RasPi cantilevered out the back of it, is to combine your custom panel with an off-the-shelf (ha) rackmount shelf.
You can get shelves that are fairly thin but sturdy sheet steel, that have a lip and clearance below (such as for room for zip ties or non-flush screws from the bottom. And you can also get ones that are flush with the bottom of the unit, and use adhesive (including Velcro pads) to mount the components on top.
If you want an easy way to make a front panel that doesn't look as good as the one in the article, you can get a rackmount gap filler panel, which will probably be thinner steel sheet metal then the aluminum one, and drill/Dremel/lasercut? whatever holes you need in it.
Another option is starting with a rackmount drawer, such as those by some DJs/musicians in road cases. It's a rackmount front panel, plus an all-sides enclosure rest of it. Which you can unlock and slide out. to access the internal components, without unracking. You can drill/cut air holes. Cabling to the rear will vary depending on the design.